Anyone who's ever shopped for shoes across different brands or countries knows the frustration: you might be a size 9 in one brand, an EU 40 in another, and find yourself completely puzzled when shopping internationally. But why do these discrepancies exist, and more importantly, why do shoes of the same marked size often fit differently even within the same measurement system?
A Brief History of Shoe Sizing
The story of shoe sizing is as old as mass-produced footwear itself. Before the industrial revolution, shoes were largely made-to-measure by local craftsmen. As production scaled up in the 19th century, the need for standardization became apparent. Different regions developed their own systems: the UK's barleycorn-based measurements, Continental Europe's Paris Point system, Japan’s Mondopoint system and the US's adaptation of the British system.
Why Different Standards Exist
The persistence of different sizing systems globally isn't just about tradition – it reflects the historical development of local manufacturing practices and trade patterns. The UK system, dating back to the 14th century, was based on the barleycorn (⅓ inch). The European system developed from the Paris Point (⅔ cm), while the US modified the British system slightly to accommodate local preferences. More recently, the ski industry adopted Mondopoint to create a universal sizing system based on centimeters.
The Bigger Mystery: Inconsistent Fit Within Standards
While different global standards can be converted mathematically, a more perplexing issue is why shoes of the same marked size, within the same system, often fit differently. Several factors contribute to this phenomenon:
1. Last Variations
Each manufacturer uses their own proprietary "lasts" – the foot-shaped molds around which shoes are constructed. These can vary significantly based on:
- Target market foot shapes
- Style considerations
- Brand-specific fit philosophy
- Manufacturing traditions
2. Regional Foot Differences
Research from Volumental, published in Nature - Scientific Reports, has revealed significant differences in foot dimensions across continents and between men’s and women’s feet. Additionally, the study, which analyzed 1.2 million 3D foot scans from North America, Europe, and Asia, highlighted a wide variety of foot shapes within each region and gender.
3. Manufacturing Variations
Shoe size standardization is a complex challenge. While shoe lasts play a crucial role in defining fit, many other factors also influence how a shoe feels on the foot. For example, a trainer made from highly elastic materials will fit significantly larger than a leather shoe, even if both are produced from the same last. Due to the wide range of variables that affect fit, inconsistencies can occur even between different models from the same brand. In several of Volumental’s studies, we found that around 40% of shoes do not fit true to size..
4. Style-Based Differences
Different shoe styles naturally require different fits. A running shoe needs more toe room than a dress shoe, while a hiking boot requires different volume considerations than a casual sneaker. Brands often adjust their sizing accordingly, but rarely communicate these adjustments to consumers.
The Impact on Consumers and Retailers
This inconsistency creates significant challenges:
- 60% of consumers wear the wrong size shoes
- Return rates for online footwear purchases can reach 40%
- Environmental impact of returns is estimated at millions of tons of CO2 annually
- Customer frustration leads to decreased brand loyalty
Moving Toward a Solution
The footwear industry is increasingly recognizing that traditional sizing systems alone are insufficient. What's needed is a more comprehensive approach to fit that takes into account the multiple dimensions of foot shape and how they interact with different shoe designs.
This is where advanced technology comes into play. By combining precise 3D foot scanning with actual purchase and fit data, it's now possible to move beyond simple size numbers to truly understand how different shoes fit different feet. Volumental's innovative approach does exactly this – matching detailed foot measurements with real-world fit data from millions of successful purchases to provide personalized recommendations that work across any sizing system, brand, or style.
The future of footwear fitting isn't about standardizing sizes – it's about understanding the unique relationship between each foot and each shoe, regardless of what number is on the box.